The Spice Route served for centuries as a vibrant corridor that connected the Indonesian archipelago to the outside world. Through its busy coastal ports, ships from Europe, Arabia, India, and China carried not only valuable goods but also intangible items like tales, rituals, and aesthetics. The cosmopolitan city of Batavia, where cultures converged, interacted, and changed one another, was created as a result of these transoceanic encounters. From this environment, the kebaya peranakan, a seemingly unremarkable item of clothing, rose to prominence as a potent representation of identity. The kebaya peranakan was more than just attire; it became a living record of the Spice Route, capturing the integration of international and indigenous influences. and reflecting the unique personality of the Betawi population. In this sense, the kebaya is more than just a fashion relic; it is evidence that the Spice Route was not only a network of trade but also a path for the exchange of culture and civilization that is still relevant now.

The story of the Spice Route is frequently told from the viewpoint of economic rivalry and colonial expansion. From the fifteenth century forward, European expeditions from Portugal, Spain, the Netherlands, and England were drawn to Southeast Asia by the allure of spices like nutmeg, cloves, pepper, and cinnamon, which became highly valued goods. These commodities, together with salt, sugar, and other materials, led Europe’s maritime empires to gain a foothold throughout the archipelago. However, the Spice Route was always more than just a commercial endeavor. The ports of Southeast Asia were at once places of intercultural contact where Chinese, Arab, Indian, and European merchants traded languages, culinary practices, religious traditions, and artistic forms as well as commodities. The Indonesian archipelago, as a result, turned into a cosmopolitan forum where new traditions were discussed, blended, and maintained. In the area’s cultural environment, many of these legacies are still evident today.

Given this context, one might wonder: How did the Spice Route influence the visual and material culture of Betawi society? This topic can be examined through the fascinating lens of the kebaya peranakan. Born out of cross-cultural encounters, this item of apparel sheds light on Batavia’s place in international trade networks and shows how material culture mirrored processes of acculturation, creolization, and identity development. Scholars can learn more about how visual culture served as a means of expressing belonging and negotiating power in colonial and postcolonial settings by following the kebaya.

The Dutch East India Company (VOC) founded Batavia itself in 1619 on the ruins of Jayakarta. The city was intended to be a center for international trade, but it soon developed into a melting pot of cultures where various groups—European settlers, Chinese immigrants, Arab traders, Indian workers, and indigenous populations—coexisted. Clothing developed as a very evident indicator of cultural identity and adaptation in such a society of continuous exchange. According to historical records, the kemben, kutang, and baju kurung were among the traditional attire worn by women throughout the archipelago. The kebaya is the product of the evolution of these forms over time. Its roots may be traced back to the Arabic kabā or habaya (a long robe), which was subsequently transformed into Portuguese as cabaya, according to linguistic evidence. Additionally, the kebaya’s location is supported by stylistic parallels to the beizi of Ming dynasty China, a unisex item with long sleeves and a front opening. inside a transregional network of influences.

The kebaya peranakan, often referred to as the kebaya encim, was the end product of the evolution of these forms. The simple shape of the Dutch women’s kebaya was combined with the complex ornamental lexicon of Chinese aesthetics in this outfit, which included embroidered patterns of peonies, phoenixes, and other auspicious symbols. The kebaya peranakan, in contrast to the demure white kebaya favored by European ladies, embraced bold colors and intricate adornment. In this way, it acted as a visual record, imprinting the history of interaction and exchange from the Spice Route onto the bodies of Betawi women.

The kebaya peranakan served as both a piece of everyday clothing and one with symbolic meaning. It evolved into a symbol of dignity, respectability, and community pride in a hierarchical colonial society during weddings, cultural celebrations, and public events. Wearing the kebaya was both a statement of cultural belonging and a demonstration of elegance for Betawi women. In this manner, clothes functioned as a visual language that facilitated dialogue inside social groups defined by race, class, and power. As such, the kebaya should be seen as a cultural strategy of resilience, a means by which, rather than just a fashion statement. Betawi women established their position in a diverse yet unfair environment.

The kebaya peranakan is more than just a pretty piece of clothing, to sum up. It represents the legacy of the Spice Route in the development of local identity; it is a repository of cultural negotiation, history, and memory. Its hybrid shape reflects the many ways in which Batavia and, by extension, Indonesian culture were influenced. In this sense, the kebaya peranakan serves as an illustration of how material culture may shed light on wider processes of globalization, acculturation, and identity, reminding us of the Spice Route. It covers not only goods but also the flow of people, concepts, and lifestyles.